i just got a new guitar and it is my first with a floyd. i like to play in e flat and id like to tune my guitar to it. i know this is i huge process but how would one go about tuning from e to e flat?

thank you

http://www.floydrose.com/originaltr...l#basic_topic_2

This is for the original, I'm not too sure how much a difference there is between that and the licensed because I don't deal with floyd roses much. Sorry I can't help more.

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sorry man, but those instructions are terrible. number one rule of floating bridges is NEVER TUNE A STRING TOO SHARP, and they say to do exactly that. This is because if the too sharp string is too sharp when you finish tuning, its a motherfucking bitch to detune it again. Also, its easier to set the fine tuners to their lowest pitch position and go from there.

Also, downtuning is a HUGE bitch compared to uptuning... and takes a bit longer.

Heres how i do it, an it only takes me about 15-20 minutes.

1. loosen nut clamp (duh)

2. loosen fine tuners to lowest setting (all the way out)

3. for downtuning: loosen the strings quite a bit until you're for sure BELOW your desired tuning
for up tuning: skip this step

4. tune up strings to desired tuning. Will require multiple tunings because everytime you tighten one, the rest will go flat. So tune up your low E to Eb, and then a, and the d, then g, b, e whatever. Keep doing that until they stop pulling eachother out of tune.

5. If bridge is leaning back into your guitar, loosen the springs on the inside (tighten the screws that the springs are attached to)
if bridge is lifted out of your guitar, DETUNE STRINGS FIRST and then tighten those spring screws

7. OPTIONAL: adjust action if necessary (usually is necessary if you've just fixed a leaning bridge)

8. tune that shit up again, with steps 3 (if necessary) and 4.

9. clamp that shit down, and use the fine tuners.

voila


Another reason the floyd instructions are stupid: they depend more on your fine tuners than your REAL tuners. Fuck them. Whats with the "if your fine tuners are out of range, repeat steps 1 through 7". THATS THE WHOLE FUCKING PROCESS ALL OVER AGAIN. Golden Rule: depend on your main tuners before the fine tuners.

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Yeah it's really not a big deal to change a tuning, just tune it up a few times and you'll grow to understand how it works and will eventually know the exact amount of tension the springs need for a particular tuning with a particular set of strings.

bleeding's guide is dead on, just one thing though, don't bother to bring it to exact pitch before you do any adjustments to the springs because you're just gonna have to start all over again. Just tune very vaguely to where you want to get, and you'll be able to see if the bridge is going up or down because of unbalanced tension.

When you get more experience with the bridge, you'll be able to predict how much you're going to have to tighten/loosen the springs to get the bridge perfectly parallel when you tune it to exact pitch.

1 more thing: Gotta be prudent before locking down the clamp on the headstock and make sure it's only *slightly* below the desired tuning(like 3 dots away from the center position on your tuner) when you lock it. The teeny bit of tension added when you lock the clamp actually brings the tuning up to perfect pitch, in some cases. If not, only minor fine tuning screw adjustments should be necessary.

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