Ferrules, which are little holes lined with metal, that go from the back of the guitar to the front. The strings have ball-ends, which can't pass through the narrow ferrules. Only the actual string can pass through. You should be able to figure out how to change strings if you just remove the old ones. Remove a string, then put on the new one. One at a time.

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That thing about ball ends getting stuck there... That's what I thought it was, thanks. But can't the ball end snap off or is it really secure? And do those holes support all kinds of string guages? Ie: 13 guage won't fit through or 09 will slip through? Damn I'm paranoid...

The ball ends are pretty secure. Every guitar uses them, except maybe floyd roses or something. I've never had a floyd so I don't know.

The ball ends are the same size nomatter what gauge you use. It's the ball ends that get 'stuck' and secure the strings. Any string size should fit through the ferrules, unless you use bass strings or something. 008's, 013's, shouldn't have any problems.

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k. i have a pretty crappy yamaha electric. its got a yamaha tremelo bridge.
it stays in tune but id like to lower the action. i tried but the screws are not cut evenly on the bottom so the whoe saddle moves sideways.
what would i have to do to replace this bridge with a stoptail/tuneomatic type bridge. what bridge would you reccomend and do you want to sell me one?

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I wouldn't know how much this would cost, but I reckon you'd be getting a much better deal if you bought a plain good ol' Ibanez guitar under $270(like the RG321). Plus you'd have an extra guitar, just something to think about.

Are there any good guitars that come with decent tremolo bridges at around $300(preferably less) new? I mean I'd like to familiarize myself with tremolos someday, but this will be only after I upgrade my current axe and buy a 7-string, so no hurries.

dude this is my extra guitar. i have a shecter c-1 as my main. i was gonna put emgs and a new bridge in the yamaha. the yamaha has my favorite neck ive ever played. i need the new bridge so i can set it up good.

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hey i have a jackson with a crappy liscensed floyd i was wondering if kahlers ere the best floyds and if so where can you get them in england? oh and also will it improve my tone and playability? and how much are they?
.thanks

Everyone claims that Kahler's are better than even OFR's, they look complex and sturdy as fuck too. They'll probably set you back $450, maybe that's like 300 pounds or more.

Arvina: why not lock the tremolo on your Yamaha? It'll probably be cheaper than getting a new bridge, but it will be inconvenient if you change tunings and shit.

but where can i buy them? will i have to get them 2nd hand or used? coz i heard that kahler dont make them anymore.

They started manufacturing again dude, do a google search for Kahler, its something like Kahlerusa.com

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Kahlerusa... um, maybe you should try looking for a dealer in England that sells them. Be it a real instrument shop or a site. Or you might have to pay for shipping + customs and shit. And - as always - get a pro to install it for you unless you know what you're doing, so that will set you back a bit more, so try getting it from within England. Try the UK eBay site...

This is the place you get the new Kahler bridges. Enjoy!

Edit: Oh yeah, they are making custom made bridges now so you can get 7 string Kahler bridges.

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the trmelo part is not whats getting me. i cant adjust the saddles because the bottom of the screws are cut crookedly so if i twist the screws to lower or raise the saddles they move sideways. sure i could just take em out and file em down or sumthng, but i want to replace it sith a stoptail or tune-o-matic. down use tremelo. what would you reccomoend? witch would be easyer to instal. sprry for horrible spelling and grammar

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ok, this question is for the kahler fans:

Are the flush mount bridges worth getting to sub for a tune-o-matic bridge?

also

HOW good are the flush mount ones? I HAVE played on one, but it was on a guitar i thought sucked ass, and could no get any dive bombs going.

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Screw ur goddamn question...j/k
But I just saw this Jackson w/ a 2320 Kahler on it, and I wanna know how those kahlers are.

http://www.ikebe-gakki.com/shopping...=&start_index=0

It's the KV-2K, right after the Kelly one.

There are fixed bridge flush mount Kahlers and they are very nice. I think they are 2330 bridges, but I'm not sure about the model number really. They are just like a normal flat mount trem Kahler but the cam doesn't move and there is no routing involved at all. They have fine tuners just like the trems. I had one one my Jackson KV-1 and it was an excellent bridge.

Silent Night, be careful about that guitar. There are Kahler wanna B bridges made in Asia. I don't think that Jackson has a real Kahler. Real ones are engraved with the Kahler logo with "Made in the USA" right on the top of the bridge somewhere. I cound not see it anywhere on that guitar plus it didn't look like a real Kahler to me.

Edit: I was wrong. They are the 3300 bridges

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Well, in the specs. it says they're 2320's. I'm experienced in Kahlers at all, so I don't know the differences in them, but if I were to get one, I'd like to have the 3300 fixed bridge.

With Kahler's, are all the strings dependent on the tension of the springs like a Floyd? If a string breaks, do all the others go out of tune? And if you don't have the locking bolts on, can you like drop tune the low string, without the others going out of tune?

I think it works the same way as a floyd in that regard, so Itll probably go out of tune, unless you have a special trem blocking thingy put in.

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It can go out of tune if a string breaks but I have never broke a string on a Kahler. That is just the nature of any floating bridge. I have noticed that when I take one off during string changing the tune of the others are not affected by much. I can also detune to drop D with just the fine tuner and it doesn't affect the other strings.

There are 2 springs in a Kahler bridge. They are not very long and are fat. Maybe 1/2" in length and you can adjust the tension from the top. The springs also are completely attached to the bridge itself.

What gives a Kahler its tuning stablity, I'm not sure, but it is a great design.

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How are double stops on a kahler? Just as on a floyd or do the other strings keep in tune?

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Tuning stablity is a Kahler strong point. Double stops don't seem as affected as on a Floyd but it is a floating bridge. It has most of the cons of any other floating bridge but minimized.

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So then, is the non-tremolo Kahler just basically like a stop-bar or tune-o matic bridge then, meaning it has no tremolo capabilities?

Yup, but with fine tuners. It can be made into a trem by switching out the cam though.

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Hey guys are the Kahler Spyder trem's any good?

I have Jackson DXMG with already instaled licenced FR. Is it recomended to instal Kahler tremolo, or just to replace licenced FR with the original one(FR). If instaling Kahler which model to instal,and is it recomended to "dig" wood for more space because of Kahlers dimensions. Which of these two(OFR or Kahler,i know this question is to general and hard to answer,but...) stays in tune longer. I would apreciate description(performances) of recomended(from you) models,whith price if posible.

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i have a floyd rose right now... what would i have to do to get a kahler in there? like any routing or shit?

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i guess its ok, since its a kahler, but i think most peeps would recomend a kahler flatmount 2300 series (doesnt matter wich one as long as its a 23xx).

im getting a kahler 2315 in my custom axe

ive never played a kahler, but from al what ive heard bout them, im willing to risk it. actualy, i already love it lol

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Sorry for not reading thw whole thread. But I have a question I want to instaal a original floyd rose in my project guitar. But the project guitar now has a fixed bridge. and the neck i in a bit of an angle. ( LIke a les paul ) is it possible to route the guitar to fit a floyd ? The neck troubles me. I don't know if it's possible. And I wanna know for sure before I buy the floyd

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I'm sure it's possible, but maybe it'll require some truss rod adjustment.

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I've got a Kahler 2320 in my new guitar. I need to learn how to set it up. At the moment, it's going out of tune pretty easily, especially when I use the whammy.

Really? Wow, I thought Kahlers were like impossible to go out of tune except for regular string wear. Well yeah it could be that you need to set it up better, but I have no clue as to how settting a trem up better would be. Would it be tampering with the springs in the back compartment?

Is their 2330 "Flyer" model -their cheapest trem which goes for $209- any good? The only difference I can think of is the materials used to make it, seems to have some brass parts as opposed to the higher end models. Anyone have any experience with the 2330?

I'll be buying a used guitar sometime soon and I want to stick this bridge in it.

Can anyone point me to a site that has detailed info on routing a guitar for a Kahler bridge for a guitar that already has a trem? And some info on installing a locking nut? Do all locking nuts have to have a screw bolted into the neck from the back? Cuz I think I've seen some that don't have screws in the back but I'm not sure.

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I actually wanted the 3300 non-trem one, but I'm happy with what I've got. I haven't tried one myself, but I've heard from several people that the 2330 is the worst of the Kahler trems. They said that it's poorly designed compared to the others. I need to know how to raise/lower the action, cuz the other day I detuned it and the 1st string was hitting the frets.

Does Kahler make a 7 string bridge. ive looked but i cant find one, i may be missing it though.

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Ive looked too & i cant find one, fuckin bastards! i guess us 7-stringers arent important enough to get one from them. They make a fixed bridge with fine tuners too which is exactly what i need right now, but guess what? they dont fuckin make one for a 7!

they DO make em, only custom i think.

i read somewhere that kahler makes 6, 7, 8 string guitar bridges, and also 4, 5, 6 string bass guitar bridges.

only theyre custom, so i think u have to email them.

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Not any more. They are making 7 strings right now and you will be able to buy them soon. They are also making a bridge plate so you can put Kahlers on guitars with a floyd route without having to fill and repaint that hole on the top of the guitar. It will be the same Kahler bridge but with a slightly bigger base to cover the old route.

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I just hope their not $500 bucks

I think they will be more like ~$300. Worth it imo.

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hey i m going to get a new guitar (rg1570) which has an edge pro bridge. i hear that it is nearly the same as a floyd rose bridge
the thing is i usually play in two tunings (standard and Dadgbe) but i hear people say how hard it to change tuning in the floyd rose
so i wanted to know how much time does it take to change the tuning in an rg1570

About the same time if not a few seconds more.

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http://www.glowingtubes.com/p/Kahler_Instructions.htm

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Is there anyone who has changed his Licensed FR to an Original or a speedloader cos i want to know if there are significant differences

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Also i wanna ask, is it normal for your tremolo arm to go loose if you tightened it to stay in one position?

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I never changed a Licensed FR to an Original, but I would think it wouldn't be too hard as they are similar bridges, just one is of better quality.
As for the trem arm, I tightened mine to a certain point, but then it got loose and now tightens at a different point, so I really don't know???


Now...I have an Washburn X-20 with a non locking bridge and i use to play in D tuning with a set of 13s...now I play with the same strings in B tuning. Since my guitar has a floating bridge, when I down tuned to B, the bridge no longer was parallel and now rests on the body of the guitar. I do use the trem every now and again since it gets out of tune somewhat easy (its non locking), but is that a problem that it rests on the body...will it do damage to my guitar???

I know I can just unscrew the back plate and readjust the springs to compensate for the tension, but one of the screws holding in the bridge claw (I think thats what its called?) is totally stripped, which brings me to my second question: How the hell do I get out a stripped screw so I can make the bridge parallel again???

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Attached Files

X20.doc (55.5 KB, 107 views)

Anybody?

thats the same thing thats happening to my guitar ive got an ibanez grg170dx i know i know its shit but when i down tune to drop c the bridge just rests agaisnt the body making it look gay. but when i tune it to standard it goes back up

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u gotta adjust the springs in the backplate to balance the pull of the strings with the pull of the springs

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ok how do i do that?

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take off the backplate. if the bridge is being pulled towards the headstock, tighten the screws to the plate which the springs are connected to. if the bridge is resting on the guitar you gotta loosen them. if its really way off balance take out, or put on a spring. also before and AFTER you do this, you have to tune up to see if you are getting close to being parallel.

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thx well that was pretty easy

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hey thx again i tuned it down to drop C and the bridge was set perfectly

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no prob man, its cool that i helped somebody Just remember to keep tuning after you adjust the springs to see how close you are to being parallel

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I know that in order to make my bridge parallel again I need to adjust the screws (tighten or loosen). My problem is that one of the screws got completely stripped and I'm not sure how to get it out?

What do you mean by stripped? Is it too far inside?

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You know the part where it looks like a plus on the head of the screw and where you put the screwdriver into in order to tighten or loosen the screw? The "+" is no longer there and it is a circle like shape so my screwdriver can;t get a grip on it to tighten or loosen it. That's what I mean by the stripped, BTW.

holy shit man!!! get some pliers and take it out(by turning it anti-clockwise not by pulling it out) to get it replaced. you should use a screwdriver that fills the + perfectly.

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I never realized until after the shit got stripped that there are specific scredriver sizes to fit into specific sized screw heads. I'm an idiot!
But anyways, thank you for the advice, I'll definitely will try that out the next time I restring my axe.

My liscenced floyd rose has a minor problem. Whenever i do many divebombs(until the point the strings are floppy) and i bring back the bridge in the normal position, the tuning is a little flat. then i have to pull up the bridge and release to get it into perfect tuning. whats wrong with it? Is it the springs?

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Has anyone had any experience with the tune-o-matic bridges that have rollers instead of the standard saddles? Is there a change in the tone, keep in tune just as well?

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Is the locking nut tightened enough? If it is, maybe your strings are old and need a change. I don't think it could be the springs unless you really stretched the shit out of 'em.

nope, locking nut is fuckin tight. ill try changing strings
thx

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Help! i noticed that my fucking pivot screw on my floyd is sliding out. what should i do? super glue it?

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Anyone?

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Get a Kahler.

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Thats not really solving the problem right now

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Get new pivot screws. Definately DONT superglue it, how the hell are you going to adjust the action then? The shafts for the pivot screws may also need replacement.

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I mean shall i superglue the shafts into the guitar body, and leave the screw as it is

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Probably a bad idea too. Fill the holes with wood filler and redrill them like if they were new.

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ah ok thx. but the holes are differently drilled. when i look inside i just see straight lines going down the walls. how the hell do you redrill it like that?

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One big-ass drill head.

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Oh GOD STOP! Dont' just use wood filler! Not in a spot where there will be stress applied. It will just turn to chips and dust.

Fill the hole with a wooden rod and wood glue. Then redrill it. Make special measurements so you don't drill in the wrong place.

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Actually yeah, that's a way better idea, I meant to say "fill it with a piece o wood", not that synthetic wood filler crap.

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Okay, I'm new here, so I made it a point to read this whole damn thread in as much detail as is possible at this hour of the morning prior to asking this question. I apologize if my question has already been answered elsewhere, but here goes: I have an ESP Eclipse with a non-floating OFR. I've been interested in Kahlers for a while now, and I want to know...

1.)Does the 2300 Flatmount bridge work well with .13-gauge string sets in standard C- to B-tuning? I'm also using all 5 springs on my OFR to keep things nice and tight even if I decide to tune up to standard D, so I'm also wondering if Kahlers are slotted out for that many, or if they use their own spring sets with different tensions.

2.)What would have to be done for me to swap out my ESP's current OFR for a 2300 FM (any sort of luthier work i.e. routing/drilling)? The guitar came from their shop having never been recessed, so it's not like a modded one that had a floating trem to begin with.

3.)Would the nut locks from my OFR be compatible with a 2300 FM, or would I also have to get the one-piece Kahler lock that they usually have?

4.)What is the exact distance of the string spacing on the 2300 FM? I checked Kahler's site and also followed a few Google results, but couldn't find the dimensions anywhere. F-spacing is fine for my purposes (since I'm running EMG-81s), but even a difference of a few millimeters can make things like sweep and trem-pick arpeggiations much smoother.

I know these are more questions than average for a post in this thread, but it's what I need to know to make an informed decision. Kahlers are expensive; and while I've heard nothing but good things about them, every purchase is potentially regrettable.

2)Probably some routing or drilling, but not much.

3)The OFR lock nuts will work, and in fact they look nicer than Kahler nuts.

But hell, if you have an OFR, why not just have it modded into a floating type? They're so easy to set up and keep in tune IMO. Kahlers are far more complex and will cost you a lot of money. Just my 2c, I would get an OFR, Schaller Floyd, or an OFR Pro.

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There's no point in modding it, really. I haven't been playing long enough (7.5 years) nor have I focused enough on leads to be able pull off the sort of flashy shit that requires a floating bridge. I've dive-bombed and dropped a few sliding chords here and there, but it's not something I do often enough to go through the hassle and tonal rearrangement that a new hole in my guitar would require. When it's time for that kind of stuff, I'll probably just get an axe more suited to leads than my Eclipse -- something with a thinner thru-body neck, most likely -- and float the trem on that instead.

It's just that the set-up on a Kahler seems to be better for sustain and string control due to the lower profile and the saddle positionings. And the OFR on my ESP is a stud-mount if I'm not mistaken, so it's probably taller and clunkier on the pick hand than a 2300 FM. Plus, the stainless steel on a 2300 FM won't rust like the moving parts on an OFR will. Also, I think I remembering reading that the fine tuners had a wider range than the ones on the OFR. And if they're more narrowly-spaced than an OFR or OFR Pro, then that's just an added bonus. That's why I'd rather not do a full-on recess job on my only shred-worthy guitar.

As for whatever work would have to be done: what kind of drilling/routing? Would it be the sort of thing that would prevent me from going back to the OFR or an OFR Pro if I didn't like the feel of the Kahler for whatever reason, or would more work have be done in that event as well?

can anyone help me?, second hand there is an 80s bc rich japanese ironbird with a kahler spider trem, does anyone own one of these trems? what are they like?

and also if i wanted to replace the spider trem with an ofr would i be able to?
i thought i would as the spider trem seems to be the same overall shape to the floyd rose so i didnt think any extra routing would be necesarry but i dont know.

please help me!

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Ah, the purple one on ebay? I took a look at that one but I'm not interested cause of the hideous paintjob. Yeah you could replace the trems, but you would definately need extra routing, cause OFRs have a back spring cavity while Kahlers do not, plus the shape is very different.

I hear spider trems are decent. But I'm not interested in Kahlers...

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thats rather coincidental, the one im getting isnt on ebay but it is purple and it is in bristol (the uk version of bristol anyway ) but im probably just rambling now.

i went on ebay and saw the one you were talking about, by the looks of it thats not a spider trem it looks like a 2203 or whatever kahler call it, it looks like the one on kerry kings guitar. this is a link to what a spider trem looks like

http://metaltabs.com/forum/attachme...ntid=7695&stc=1


so can i put a floyd in its place? does anyone know? or are kahler spyder trems still good as OFRs?


cheers

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anyone?

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This might be a stupid question but im curious. Can you pull back making notes go sharp with a Kahler tremolo?

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Yeah of course you can. Just watch a vid of Kerry King on War at the Warfield and he pulls up on his trem all the time during solos and stuff like that. However, i've heard that kahlers cant be pulled up as far as a floyd though. Not sure if thats true

Probably cant. Just look at it, the cavity for a kahler doesn't have all that much room to pull inwards(up).

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Thats true(about not having much room), but i think that it can still be pulled up a bit to raise the pitch. But nowhere as much as a floyd can.

Ok, im looking to get a new ibby with an edge pro II trem. i have heard mixed things about them and that everyone should stay the fuck away from them. BUT i have heard that you can replace them with an OFR or schaller floyd, but would replacing the Edge pro II need SOME extra routering? or is it a perfect fit? and could you replace it with an edge pro?

i need some ideas here!

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What router bit do you use to drill a hole for the pivot screws of a floyd rose?

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Anyone???

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I just recently bought a brand new OFR and am going to install it today. I have a question. Besides doing the regular installation, am I going to have to intonate the bridge? All the saddles are at the same position, could this be a problem? It was like this on my DXMG and I never had problems.
I've never done Floyd Rose(or regular) intonation before, is it a pain in the ass? How would I do it if it's necessary?

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anyone know the dirfference between..

edge pro, edge pro 2, egde pro 3 bridges??

im thinking of changing my kahler for a edge pro, i like the dge better cuz it does most tremolo tricks alot better than my kahler bridge

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Edge pro is the original model, which i believe is suppose to be the best one. Edge pro II is the cheaper Korean made version, which is also suppose to be good, but not as good as the Edge Pro I. Ive never heard of the edge pro III. If you plan on changing it you should go with the edge pro or even better an original floyd. Ive never tried out a kahler before, but i know that you wont be disappointed by the floyd whether it be an edge pro or original floyd for whammy tricks.

Umm, what You mean you got a Kahler 2300 series flat mount bridge and you want to replace it with a edge pro? Is that correct?

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Have you got your custom yet?

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yep, the kahler doesnt feel as good as a floyd or edge pro to me, though, the sustain is awesome, but hell im playing a neckthrough, plenty sustain there so..

ohwell, my custom is at the builders place now for a week or so, getting the neck pu changed to a dimarzio fred and im getting a push pull volume knob to switch from humbuck to singlecoil

ive even been thinking of selling it and getting a fender usa strat or so, lol my tatste has changed quite alot last half year

anyone know if kahlers (i have the special 2315 i think) have a good resale price?? like howmuch in euros or USD??

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Is it a newer model? No ideal what resale would be, but I know the old models sell for up too $200 if they are in perfect unused condition. $100+ for slightly used older models in good condition.

No reason you shouldn't be able to get $200 for it easy if its a newer model.

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yeh its brand new, but its been on my guitar for +- 2 months

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Cool, What guitar do you have it on? Got a pic of it? Its a 2315 you think right?

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its on ym custom warrior, i had some pictures ofit when it was unfinished, but ive lost those, im picking it up from the builder next monday (all finished) and ill make some pics then.

i have the special thing, the one that slayer dude plays with (ahum) im not sure if thats the 2315??

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Not sure if this matter anymore,but............

Somebody earlier in this thread asked if you can tune down to B with a Kahler tremolo.I am tuned that low and use the 2300 type.All you have to do is change out the springs for heavier ones,and it works fine.The bar has more weight though and it feels a little more like a floyd.And a Kahler has WAY MORE up-pull range than a floyd too,just to clear that up!

I am having problems with my Kahler at this time though.My high E and B strings go pretty far out of tune when bending or using the bar,for no apparent reason I can find after taking it apart.Looks like I'll be replacing parts until I find the culprit.That means spending $$$ I don't really have.Pretty sure it's the string hooks,or one of the bearings,or the springs.....this is my only beef with these trems.Lots of moving parts and when something goes wrong (which is rare) ,you can't always find the reason easily.

But yeah,Kahler is the best trem you can possibly use!!!

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I've used Kahlers for years and have never had any major problems. Kahlers are the best bridge for me but I know others perfer Floyds.

About your E and B string problem. The fault may not be in the bridge itself or else all the strings would go out of tune when you bend or use the bar. I think the problem is either the locking nut or the string loops. Try using just a light film of solder around the string loop ties. This should fix any loop slipping, and for the nut you might need a new clamp plate for those strings.

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get some new strings befoere you buy tremolo parts, and like soulinsane sayd, scheck the locking nut,

i used to have a high B string that did that, turned out to be a bad string cuz after replacing it was perfectly fine (i also use a kahler bridge)

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