what oil finish do you mean?? and what is violinflat finish??

also, if you want a natural finish, you can either oil finish it, or clear laquer it, the clear laque finish will be shiny (unless u get matt clear laquer).
also you could get a wood binding, usualy looks pretty nice, but its alot harder to do cuz wood doesnt realy bend well.

about the flamed or quilted maple, just get whatever you like the best. its both maple so tonewise it would matter alot, depending on what other woods you use for the guitar (i assume its a guitar).

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I need to get me ahold a nice leather strap for my Ran when she arrives!

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You can use wood for binding... many acoustic guitars use maple or something that will contrast with the top/sides. It preserves the natural look. Plastic binding on acoustics usually looks cheap, so you definitely have a point about plasatic binding possibly ruining the look.

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yeh maple bindings are cool, ive seena guitar somewhere, wich had a rosewood fretboard with flamed maple binding, looked soo damn sexy

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What finish makes it seem as if there is nothing applied on the wood? Is it oil finish?
Also, what's so important about scale length? What would be the best scale length for a 22 and 24 fret guitar?
Btw, nice design there, k13m...

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euhm yeah, oil finish feels and looks like plain wood, but the oil (depending on wich oil you use) will seal the wood, so it wont absorb moist etc. also oil finished can be coloured/dyed (dno exactrly how, but i guess mixing the oil with oilpaint).

there is no BEST scale length, it depends on what you prefer, 22 or 24 frets also dont mater for the scale size, its just 2 more or 2 less frets on the neck so..

the longer the scale, the further the distance from fret to fret will be, the shorter the scale, the smaller the dixtance from fret to fret.
also, 25,5 is most used on guitars, xept gibson and prs (and probaly some more), they usualy have a bit shorter scale (+- 24,75'').

also, longerscaled guitars will have a tighter sounding bass.
the guitar im building will be tuned to B, so i make the scale a but longer than usual.

oh, the design is just an idea, i stil need to fix alot abouit it.

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Will longer scaled guitars have tighter sounding bass because of the increased tension? Or what... I don't really know, haha.
Anyways, what do you think about a 24 fret on a 24.75" scale? Would it really make a difference?

And once your guitar is finished, it would be fuck-nice, man. I like the headstock shape and the 'fanned-frets' (which I don't get at all, but I like nonetheless)
Man, now I want to start building guitars.

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yup, longer scale has more tension.. thats y bass guitars are like 3'2 inch scale.

well, for the 24 fret 24.75 scale thing, the frets will becloser to eachother than on a regular (25.5'') scale, and the bass might be a bit sloppier, i dno howmuch the difference actualy is, cuz ive never playd a shorter scale than 25.5'' but y do you want a 24.75 scale?? personaly i think the highest frets (2oth to 24th fret) would be to close together to play comportably, but that also depends on how skiny/fat your fingers are.

id say, go find a guitar store, see if they have a prs or sumtin with a 24.75 scale, and see how you like it.

also fanned frets , aka multiscaled fretboard.
there are 2 scales on this neck, the bass string has a longer scale (for tighter bass) and the thin string has a shorter scale than normaly, to make the fretdistance smaller to make soloing nicer (i hope). ive never played a neck like this before, but since most guitars with fanned frets are fucking expensive i might aswell build my own to see if i like it

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That's just the thing. There aren't any decent guitar stores in this country. The only guitars you can get here are Fender Strats. So I really can't try out any other guitar. That's why I have to rely on other people to give me some useful information. The reason why I want a 24.7 scale is because it's really the only scale I've played (I have a Les Paul, 22 fret), and it's really comfortable. Well if 25.5 is the best way to go for a 24 fret, then that's the way I'd go then.
And as for fanned frets, that's fucking great!

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ok so you own a guitar with 24,75 scale? then go playa fender strat at the store, cuz fender strats and telecasters both have 25.5 scale, just so you can feel the difference.

once again, there is no best scale for 24 frets, it depends on what you prefer.

ive just checked, the shorter scale i made for on my guitar is 25 inch
and my 21 and 22nd fret are realy small imo (i only need 22 frets), so on a 24.75 scale theyll be even smaller. ive checked with a online fretcalculator, the fret distance between the 23nd and 24th fret on a 24.75 scale is only 4.4mm, i dno if you can comfortably fit your finger between that (im sure i cant).

id say, pick up a fender strat, and see if you like the scale.
also, are you playing alot on the 24th frets?? or just rarely??
cuz if you plan to play in that area alot i wouldnt get a 24.75 scale

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I think once you get used to playing a 25.5" scale you'll wonder what you were worrying about, the difference isn't that great really, but I think Mr. k13m is right, it will make all the (positive) difference on those higher frets.

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lol so im Mr. kiem now?? whahahahhaa

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I used to own a Stratocaster. I never really noticed that it was a 25.5 scale. But to be honest, I think I found the Stratocaster more comfortable than the Les Paul.
And I just checked out the Fender website and it says that the frets are Medium Jumbo.
'Jumbo fret' basically means that the frets are kinda curved out a little bit right?

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Jumbo frets are higher and usually slightly wider than standard or medium sized frets, but it depends on the exact brand/model/size really.

But they are definitly higher.

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yup, the whole jumbo idea is the hight, so the medium jumbos are pretty comfy imo, i like em better than wide jumbos

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I think the medium jumbo frets are about the size of Dunlop 6230 frets and jumbo frets should be the size of Dunlop 6105. I've used the medium jumbos since I've first started playing guitar and find that the most comfortable. I'm started to get used to and like the jumbo frets a little more now. But I dont think I will ever like the extra jumbo frets. I dont like the fact that if you press too hard on the fret the pitch of the note changes. That doesnt happen with the medium jumbo, or jumbo frets.

Go on Ibanez.com and see model RGA 121 in violin flat finish, it's beautifull. I figured that putting maple or whatever top on natural finish would kinda make just damage for me, because i just love how natural finish looks like. But i can't imagine what colour and material would be usefull for binding, mazbe some more dark natural colour or what?

Sorry guys... Another question:

What is the best/most popular fret wire size?
I was gonna go for a Gotoh standard but I read somewhere that bigger fret wire sizes (such as the Dunlop 6105) are good for easy-bending?

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hmm, that finish does look rather nice, although, they say that the body is mahogany with a maple top.

also natural colours?? u mean just natural wood by that?
and y would a maple top make damage for you? maple is wood, so its natural, natural basicaly means, no paint finish.

bindings, either plastic, wood and maybe some more maerials, but plastic is most common.. though plastic doesnt look natural.
also, theres plenty of wood species to make bindings from, u can choose woods in so many colors, from almost white to black, even yellow, red and purple woods.

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I think nowadays the 6105 fretwire would be the most popular. The bigger frets allow in part for better bending along with a flatter fretboard radius. Also, taller frets dont let the string touch the fretboard so it gives it a scalloped feel, which allows for better bending and sweeping IMO. It also allows for slightly more sustain. But if you are used to smaller fretwire like myself, switching to extra jumbo frets (6100) would be very fustrating since it requires a slightly different approach to playing.

haha no problem.

i just checked in my guitarbook, wich has every dunlopfretwire sizes init
ill just mention the jumbo frets.

6000 - height: 1.470 mm - width: 2.990 mm
6100 - height: 1.400 mm - width: 2.790 mm
6105 - height: 1.400 mm - width: 2.290 mm
6110 - height: 1.270 mm - width: 2.920 mm
6120 - height: 1.300 mm - width: 2.900 mm

so the 6000 is just the biggest fret they have, wich will mostlikely, make hammers pullofs and bends easier.

i think the 6000 and 6100 are the most populair for ''metalguitars'', and the 6150 for fender-ish guitars.

to much to choose from ey

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More things to worry about!
Now I have to get the fret size absolutely right. I'm thinking about the 6230 or the 6150 (because I've played a Fender before). I think the 6105 would be way too tall for me, but I don't know cuz I haven't tried any of them out!
Anyways, how are the Gotoh standard fretwires?

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I dont know about the Gotoh fretwire, but I'm pretty sure that Fender uses 6230 sized frets. The 6105 can be found on Ibanez RG models. Try picking those up and see how you like them. If you think the 6105 are too large wait till you try a 6100 fretwire, like on the ESP models. Those frets are HUGE!

the 6150 is wider than the 6105 and the 6230 is realy fucking narrow, but same hight as 6150 according to my dunlop list.

maybe this will help a bit??
http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/webp...x?webpage_id=10

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Frettin...d_Fretwire.html

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I see for the tops of maple, cool. I meant what do u suggest to put as top binding, what wood and what colour, what would look nice?

Thanks man, it duz help.
I'm now considering the 6130 (it says 'vintage gibson' on that first site) since its not too tall. I'm not entirely sure.

What good is a wide fret wire?
And is it hard to slide with a taller fret wire (6105 for instance)?

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Its hard to slide only if your have a heavy handed style of playing, like me. But you can always adapt your playing to larger frets by trying to have a lighter touch. And the 6105 frets arent too bad for sliding, and I am pretty heavy handed.

depends on the guitar your having, and what you think looks nice, its your guitar so you should deicide what you like

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for me sliding goes perfect, on any fretsize realy, but im pretty soft handed, so that should be y..


wide frets make hammer ons and pulloffs easier and cleaner, also, a higher fret makes this easier too. when the fret is high, its easier to get your finger ''under'' the fret (not literaly under) to do bends and pulloffs, same idea of what a scalloped fretboard would do, exept scalloped is even more drastic.

also, when you have high frets, if you push the strign down to hard you will detune the notes you play.... but normaly noone should push down on the strings, cuz thats simply a wrong method of playing and not very friendly for your hand aswell atleast that was the first thing peeple told me wen i started playing guitar, dont press the strings down to hard!! lol

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Yeah, I noticed that on my Fender Strat. When I started out playing and my first times tuning a guitar, I got thrown off by making higher pitched notes when I pressed too hard on a fret. That pissed the shit out of me. But I eventually got used to it.

Well, I'm really stuck now. This is one of the two issues I have on the specs of the custom guitar and I don't which one to go with (but you guys have helped a fuck-load, so thanks).
I guess it's down to the 6230 (Fender style), 6130 (classic Gibson) or the 6105. The 6105's on my list because I've never really tried Jumbo frets and I'm kinda willing to go for a change. But not entirely sure it would be right for me, and I'm scared that if I do get the guitar, I would end up hating the huge frets.
Dammit!

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seriously, the 6105 arent huge, their just a bit higher than most frets youve played, but their not realy wide

EDIT: get whatever you think should do it for you.

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Well, I guess I'm gonna go for the 6105 then.

Alright, one final question (hopefully):
For a T-O-M Bridge wt a Stop Tailpiece, what would be a good nut?

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Going from a vintage Fender or Gibson fret to the 6105 isnt drastic, just slightly larger. When I get a custom axe, its gonna have 6105 too. The 6230 are cool too its just easier for me to bend with the 6105 sized frets with the thick ass strings I use, since I can get "under" them better like k13m mentioned.

A good nut for TOM with stoptail? Any nut should do I think. Go for a bone nut. Those look sweet. I would also go for locking tuners though to make sure your strings stay in tune well.

Hey, does anybody know if those custom explorers that are built by RAN are based on Gibson Explorers, or ESP EXPs?

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My guess is that maybe it's the ESP design they are based on, as they also did a design that was very much a Kirk Hammet M-II design. There isn't too much difference really is there? I'm sure if you specified you wanted the body more like the Gibson than the ESP (or vice versa) they'd do it.

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graphite nut with locking tuners.

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well they can do either, so just tell them which one you want.
i personally would go for a gibson style explorer

what is this thread about?

Ran guitars.

I think is is probably the most 'on-topic' thread on this board.

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I think the ESP EXP looks a bit better, even though the difference is really subtle.
Do you think that Dariusz will be able to identify the discreteness of the 2?

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Of course, it's not subtle at all. You could have him to make you a cock shaped wangcaster guitar if you wanted.

The old Gibbies are more round and have a classier looking headstock while the ESP types are more pointy and cheesy looking.

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just send him a picture of the model you want (mayeb also of the one you dont want so he cans ee the difference), he should be able to build it.

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Your probably thinking about the new 'EX' ESP explorers.
The one I'm thikning of is the classic 'EXP' or 'MX' models that were discontinued because they looked too much like the Gibson explorers; Gibson threatened to sue them if they didn't.

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Those lawsuit ESP Explorers were copies of Gibson Explorers just without the pickguard and a different control configuration. Those were the only difference I could ever see.

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Really?
To me, the ESP ones look a bit longer and thinner.
I must be crazy...

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There is a thread on the ESP board about the exact differences between all the models, particularly the Hetfield sigs.

Either way, I'm sure Ran could build you exactly what you wanted, however small the detail/differences, if you provide exact details and photos where necessary.

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shit... almost 3 more months to go... I wonder how my new baby is going...

Cool man...
How long ago did you place the order?

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they received my payment on June 19th... it's been a long 4 months

Well, I just seen my first Ran guitar on TV.

Krisiun had a video played on Headbangers Ball and sure as fuck... Ran guitar was everywhere. Big D must be proud. I've seen Ran guitars used a few times used live but now that Ran has been seen on TV in the USA, I'm sure interest will pour in.

I haven't kept in touch with Big D as much as I would have liked, but if you are reading this Big D... May Ran Guitars glow and make you the richest man in Poland. You sure built me a nice one. I can't thank you enough for the beautiful work I hope to buy another soon.

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Soulinsane... don't say stuff like that... it only makes January look far away... I wanna hold my Ran too!!!

I've been waiting over 6 months now......so you prolly have quite awhile to go.

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8 months over here, hopefully just a few weeks to wait now- late October is the most recent estimate date of delivery

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Shit. 8 months is a long time.
How complex are the specs and design of your guitar?

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Nothing crazy really, its a Cruiser shape, with a slightly more carved out lower horn. Neck through with a maple fretboard, and a Swamp Ash body



Got this through today though

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cool im curious about ur axe, picspicspics when you got it

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I did a little work on my custom today, not much because I'm not the luthier! Drilled a few holes for some hardware. Talking of which, the guitar would be ready a lot sooner if the UK distributors of EMGs and Gotoh machine heads had any instock!

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Man, if it took 8 months to do a Cruiser shaped guitar, I wonder how long it would take for an Explorer (one they haven't done before, I think) with a custom headstock and possible custom inlays...


Oh and congrats to your guitar.
I bet this weeks gonna be torture!

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Mine took longer, because the delivery of the Swamp Ash wings was delayed- i don't think they really use it that much, so just my luck If i get the pictures end of this week, then the money should go through to him by Wednesday of next week, so despatched probably Thursday, so possible delivery Saturday or the following Monday

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http://www.ranguitars.com/imi/katalog/d02.jpg

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By "one they haven't done before", I meant an explorer shape that's not exactly the same as the one they've produced before...
I know they've made explorer guitars, but it's based on the older style rounded ones... I'm actually looking to base it on the newer versions of the 'lawsuit' EXPs

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You mean this one?

awesome shit.

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Hey guys, a question...
How many of you out there got EMG Actives for your Rans or other guitars? Are they any good? I've heard that Dimarzios or SDs are more of the favorite because they have better tone as passives.

And would a mahogany body with a maple top help produce nice sounding tones from passive pups?

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I dont have a Ran, but I can tell you EMGs are good if you want a tight sterile sound. This is by no means a bad things, some of my favorite bands use them, like Dying Fetus, Krisiun and numerous other metal bands. For passives, DiMarzio and Seymour Duncans are the most well known. I prefer passives because of the extra dynamics and more "organic" feel, if that makes any sense. A mahogany body with maple cap will produce nice sounds as long as the pickups are good and the guitar's construction is solid.

I love EMGs, I've used them before, and my custom will have them.

A lot of people think they make every guitar sound the same, and they don't really bring out the tone of individual woods, but when you're playing with tons of gain I don't know if it makes that much difference.

I like playing with lots of gain and yet retaining clarity with heaps of power, and EMGs do this very well for me.

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JB/Jazz in my Ran...so no help!

But i've tried EMGs a few times and they're great for metal stuff.

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It might have been that video. It looks similar to the video I seen but at the same time different; it might be my PC. The video I seen had a classic RAN headstock clearly showing up at least every 15 seconds.

I got EMGs on my Ran. I personally love EMG pickups. I had JB/Jazz on my old Jackson KV-1 and they were nice but just weren't as responcive as would have liked. I have Blaze 7s on my Ibanez and I like them but I'm mostly an active pickup person.

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I have ran guitar with EMG active...... they are great! dimarzios and SD are weak... Emg rule..... emg are more agressive...

oh great another typical kid that thinks emg's are the shit cuz he owns them also what do you consider weak??


ive got nothing against emg's, but ive heard to many guitars sound like complete shit because of the emg's, i think it realy depends what guitar their in (and i dont mean the guitars brand).

i prefer passives, i even prefer singlecoils over humbuckers, cuz those usualy sound more agressive, and humbuckers usualy sound more rounded off.
then again its all about what you combine with what.

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I have EMG's in all my guitars... and I really like them but I haven't had alot of experience with passives... maybe in the future I'll give it a shot.

I also got EMG on my RAN, and, even if it sounds great, everyone here should
agree that if you want lots of output and an agressive tone right from your
pick-ups, these one are not the best.
For instance, i bought a SH-13 for one of my old Jackson guitar, and this
one really surpass the EMG81 as concerns treble reachness and amount
of gain. Playing it, you can 'feel' the difference.
EMG are very great pick-ups, precise, with a clean sound and great output,
but too much person think that there are the most agressive ones, which
is NOT TRUE. And i agree with k13m when he says it also
depends what guitar they are in.

Styx

Word, EMG's are simply not that great. I have an 81 85 set in my Ironbird and passives in all my other guitars. Most of them sound better with the passives. The EMG is hella tight but just not "alive", they just sound "dead".

The only way I get satisfactory sounds out of the 81 is rolling down the gain on my Engl to 9 o clock(normally have it at 12 o clock for most mid-output passive guitars), and doing a lot of fine EQ'ing, plus rolling down the tone to 80% because it has way too much presence and it gets annoying and muddy in a harsh trebley way(and I don't use much highs, plus I use a boss ns2). Only that gives me a Hate Eternal/I/Immortal style crunch but with less treble, very clear but it lacks "something".

The sound is good when I cut a lot gain on my Engl, because then I can dig in harder into the strings and it responds better to playing dynamics, but in NO WAY as nice as some good passives will.

Even the stock pickups in my Kramer sound better than the EMG 81 85, and they're just cheap high output pups(noiseless though). The 85 is a little too muddy and just doesn't make a good lead pickup IMO, only sounds good when sweeping, for any other leadwork I use the 81.

I'm going for Dimarzio or duncan passives in my Ran, whose acquisition is a very close possibility as I'll have more than enough cash after I sell some shit. It's gonna be an alder body with maple top, schaller Floyd Rose, either a Invader or Ironbird/Thunder body, and H-H. What do you fellas reccomend? I don't want the x2n because it'll ruin the look of it, I want a basic looking humbucker, but they must be significantly higher output than your typical jb/jazz.

I'm already decided on the neck pup(PAF Pro), but for the bridge I can't decide between Duncan SD, some Bareknuckle, Dimarzio SD, Tonezone, or something else, eh... not sure. Something like a Tonezone with more output but not muddy with bad harmonic response like a Duncan Invader. Clarity is a big issue(hence the maple top for slightly added presence to balance for the ebony fretboard and mahogany or alder body(prolly alder)), will be used for both lead and rythm.

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First, welcome to the world of IronBird styled Ran guitars owners.
Then, as concerns your choice for passive bridge pick-ups, i'd recommend
you either the SH-6 from Seymour Duncan, or the SH-13 from the same
brand (go for this one only if you love brutal sounds with no middles!).

I also chosed Alder for the body of my custom IronBird Ran, with a Maple
neck, and it sounds great, maybe a bit to cold with the active EMG-81
i have on it. I should have go for a SH-13 instead, cause i really love its
brutal, fresh sound with lots and lots of outputs (even if many guitarists may do not love its sound at all)

Whoa dude, let me see some pics of your Ran, I've always been a huge fan of the Ironbird shape, I've got a really good BCR NJ Ironbird with an EMG81-85 set and OFR but I'm gonna be selling virtually all my axes(probably my Ibanez Universe too) other than the Ironbird to get either an Invader or Ironbird/Thunder in grey quilted or flame top + gold or black hardware, neckthru, ebony fretboard, alder body, MOP dot inlays, and Floyd Rose. I still need to inquire for the price of this idea, depending on the response I may choose to simplify it a little bit.

What is the SH-6, the super distortion?

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Soeru, I think the X2n with it would sound awesome with the PAF Pro. But I know you dont want to use that. Just curious though, whats wrong with its looks? I think it looks killer. The Dimarzio Super 2 and Super 3, I hear are pretty good pickups too and, the SH-6 is the Duncan Distortion.

I love the X2N's sound, totally man. But I just think it would detract from the elegancy of having 2 identical looking humbuckers in my guitar. So I want a well balanced, clear, high output passive that looks like a plain ol humbucker. Those bareknuckle nailbombs are interesting but I have no clue how they sound, what kind of EQing they have, nor how much mV of output they have.

I've tried the JB/Jazz combo in many guitars and it's good but not enough for me, the Tonezone is even closer to my desired output but I want something hotter with a lotta clarity for technical riffs and good harmonic response, so it's gotta be good for lead too.

By the way I never play with 2 humbuckers activated at once, never found a good sound I liked using that configuration, I only use 1 at a time.

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Ask on the Bareknuckle forums, they're really helpful there, and there's a few sound clips floating around of different BN pickups there too

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Thanks, I'll take a look sometime.

I just sent Ran like my billionth price quote, didn't include my name this time because I think I'm beeing too much of an asshat.

Will post his response with all the juicy specs.

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BTW you European Ran owners, how much did you pay for customs? I figure it won't be a lot as Poland is part of the EU now right?

I payed 75€ customs(apart from shipping) when I bought my Engl Fireball(860&#8364 from Germany. So I suspect I won't be paying much more than that for 1200-1600€ custom right?

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OK I have been thinking quite a bit of what type of Ran I want. First I wanted a 7 string Thunder (aka Ironbird) then I wanted an Invader. But I have finnally thought of my dream Ran.
A Black B.C. Rich Stealth shaped guitar.
with
•Reverse headstock
•Kahler 2315 Trem
•Dimarzio X2N bridge pickup.
•On the headstock instead of the Ran logo I just want an R. (You know like B.C. Rich's old logo.) But if they can't do that than that's fine.

Ok and this one people might be rolling their eyes at me but it's what I want.
Have somewhere on the body in small print (possibly by the bridge)
5.13.1967 - 12.13.2001

I'm sure you all know what I am getting at and why I am getting at it.

Now I just want to know. (I know most of you will be like "ask ran!") But I want to know just a rough estimate or ballpark figure of how much it will coast. Plus I live in Canada so I know shipping will be extreeme as well. But please I just want to know an estimated price.

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probably 1500 euro or something
but im pretty sure they wont do the R thing.
not a bad dream though, i too want a stealth, but im gonna wait till i find the original 80's version of me dreams

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Hmm not as bad as I thought. I was expecting like 5 grand. LOL

Damn I really wanted that R thing. So does their logo have to be on the headstock or can I leave the headstock blank and put their logo on the back of the headstock or something?

HAHAHA That 80's version would be sweet but expensive as hell and hard to find.

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Man, I wasn't expecting it being this much. I think choosing a Schaller and maple top really jacked up the price, but I'm too picky to dumb down any features.

I think my Ran is going to have to wait some more, been making some calculations and perhaps now is not the best time to spend that much on an axe.

But who knows maybe in a few months I'll change my mind, I think you guys already know me for my unpredictability.

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Hi,

You can find some small pics of my custom Thunder Ran on page 160 of this
forum, guitar i received at the end of august. This was neckthru, ebony
fretboard, alder body, maple neck, with custom inlay on the 12th fret and
satin finish. This is a real metal axe, a little hard to play due to huge string
gauge.
The only thing i would change is the EMG81... for a more agressive one from
Seymour Duncan.

PS: the SH-6 is the duncan distortion, a classical one...

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Just curious man, how huge are the string guages you use and what tuning are they in that makes it kinda hard to play with? I was just wondering cuz i use 13s in standard and they seem quite normal to me but pretty impossible for some of my other friends to play. I justed wanted to know what some other guys thought. Thanks.
BTW nice axe

Hi,

When my Ran came in, there was 10-48 Labella Strings on it.
In Normal Tuning (EADGBE), it is a bit too hard for me, even if
i'm used to play 12-52 in D tuning on my other guitar.
I was surprised, but this is really a bit too hard for me. So i will
probably change for a smaller string gauge on my Ran (9-46),
but so, i may need to adjust its truss rod...

Styx

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My custom should be ready on late February. That would make the build time approx. 8 months. The wait is killing me!

I have a question for everyone who has a Ran with EMGs in it. Does your guitar have the bridge/string grounding wire? The reason I'm asking is that EMGs don't need the string grounding and if the wire isn't routed from the bridge to the control cavity, it would be a bitch to do it myself afterwards if I decide to try some passive pickups in my Ran, especially because I won't have a trem cavity.
I was thinking about asking Dariusz to route the grounding wire to the control cavity even if it isn't needed for the EMGs, and just leave it unconnected.

hey, why dont you do that?. if i order a ran i will ask him to do that. it gives me flexibility in the future.
im sure he wont mind. it will take him 30 seconds. but email him asap, i dunno if they do all the cavity drilling and routing before the painting or after. but i guess you wanna email him before the painting.

hey guys, totally forgot about this thread lol. I've finally ordered my RAN and the building-process has started, should be completed somewhen around April/May 2007, but I'm pretty excited about it

it will be a 7-string custom-shaped V

Yes, generally all this sort of drilling is done before finishing.

In fact ALL of the drilling should be (strap button and other hardware holes) otherwise there is the possibility of the finish cracking.

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The painting and finishing doesn't happen until about a month and a half before completion- so you'll have till January or so to make any changes

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Yeah that's what I figured too. I'll definitely ask Dariusz to route the wire to the cavity.

I originally ordered the guitar without the iron cross inlays but after some serious pondering I thought what the heck, it's a custom for gods sake, what difference does 120 euros make in the end. So the crosses are back in the picture. Now it will have everything I wanted in the first place, and then some

Anyday now..... im expecting my send the 2nd payment e-mail.

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Moyses told me that when Vader played in Brasil, MOysess (krisiun), changed his DEAN to Mouser( the RAN changed hands).

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Damnit,

"Hi Jonathan,we are under finishing process, but we had to stopped it because of some problems with mirror material.We have got wrong material and it didn`t work correctly...so, we have to make it again, but I have no idea, when we get new one.Unfortunately, cooperation with supplier is very hard and it can take 2 - 3 months, I`m affraid.I will inform you asap. Best regardsDariusz Kuczynski "

This sucks.

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Ah shit man I feel your pain!

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some one metioned that krisiun, video. look at this , hahahaha amazing

so grreat

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ahahaha "PISS!BALLS!go lisn to COB"

omg if you haven't read this you really should, it is why i don't bother with slayer anymore

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Hi guys,

I've just read a french forum on Ran guitars:
http://www.guitariste.com/forums/gu...23644,1380.html

... and i was surprised to learn
that a guy has received his custom Ran with a dent, the wrong machine
heads (standards instead of locking ones), and the neck pickup that dangles!

I think, but i may be wrong, he's the first one with such defaults on his
custom.

What do u think about that ?