Yeah I did put on new strings,and I always solder the end of each one as well......I should have said that in my post.I may just buy a new one since the frames are now made out of aluminum,which is a bit lighter.And I have an all brass one right now,and feel it's a bit darker in tone than what I want.I am looking at the 2315 actually,the one Slayer uses.But that may be a while away,as they are more than $300 new!

My friend had a Kahler for years and also experienced the same problem,with the strings slipping a little.He replaced the springs and the string hooks and it was fine.I should mention that we both tune down to B with heavy strings (13-56) and the larger springs in back,which will make the string locks go out a lot faster than a standard tuned guitar.My locking nut is the Schaller floyd type,and is new,so that is not an issue.Kahler is the best tremolo ever though,don't get me wrong!!! After switching I will never go back to those floyds again.

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I just picked up my RG from a shop after a pickup upgrade and a setup in B with .12s. The tech has the trem set up so that it's arched up a bit. He said he'd set up plenty of guitars in D for death metal, but it seemed like the first time he set one up in B.
Anyway, the intonation checks out, and the action is a tiny bit higher than I had it when it was in E, but it's not a bother. Is it bad for my trem to be angled up like it is? I hardly use the fucker, but I'm not quite ready to block it off yet. Pictures are attached...

ps.. see my other post in the pickups thread

Attached Images

	trem01.jpg (43.1 KB, 96 views)
	trem02.jpg (35.0 KB, 99 views)

I'm not some pro at the rose, nor know too much about them, but if i remember correctly i heard its supposed to be dead level, and if anything angled backwards is better than forwards.

Anybody else?

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Edges and Originals aren't built exactly the same and from what I've seen you can have some angle on an Edge and still be cool.

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True, but that much angle Thats like a 30 degree pitch. No wonder why the action is higher. Did he even adjust the springs?

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yeah, well before it was in E with .10s and all 4 springs were on it, but this guy said that was bad and he was gonna take 1 off and adjust the spring tension instead. when i hold the bridge down to a level position, the notes are about 2 steps higher, so maybe he just threw the heavier strings on, tuned to B, and didn't even adjust the bridge? but as i said, the intonation is right on, so it seems like he used some diligence?

p.s. nobody is responding to my pickup quesion in the sticky thread; help me out

If the intonation is right and the playability is OK then there shouldn't be a problem.

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add spring tension.

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ok something is fucked up with my trem bridge, i stuck on ghs boomers 11-53 and tuned to Eb i just adjusted the strings in the back to bring the trem down but it wont go down the 2 screws/bolts that you turn to go in are fully in but the bridge is still at a 25-35 degree angle?

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please help

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Unscrew those springs (in the back) a little and add another spring.

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theres already 3 strings in the back

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Well you can still fit two more in there .

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i dont have anymore

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With that size strings...

Get some more springs fast. You might also need to look at your relief, action, and intonation adjustments.

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whats the matter with 11-53 there not the biggest

fuck it im just gonna down tune it

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Get more springs.

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How are the spring positioned? If they are in this config: 111 in which they are parallel there will be less tension. If they are like that try angling them so that the center spring is straight and the two springs on the left and right are angled . I'm quite sure this should work since i have my axe tuned to E with a set of 13s with that spring setup and my bridge is parallel to the body.

right i read through the thread and didnt see this explicitly stated so:


I have a jackson RX10D. it's a pretty cool guitar except the trem doesnt keep it in tune very long . I dont wanna get rid of it cause it's a rare version of the RX10D (lightning sky graphic)...

so


How much routing do i have to do to replace the jackson licsensed floyd with an OFR?

A lot or none?

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Does anyone know where someone could purchase a Washburn Wonderbar, and around how much they would cost. I found some pics of them, but really no info, they look great. Are they like a FR just without all the body routing or what?

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I see them on ebay now and then mixed in with the Kahler bridges. They don't sell for much. Maybe $50 at the most. Hard to get parts for though.

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I've got 2 questions regarding bridges. This has to be one of my favorite threads on this site, btw.

1. I have an Ibanez RG570 with the EDGE licensed Floyd-Rose style tremelo system... thing is that trem has years of wear, tear and sweat erosion on it, it doesn't even stay in tune anymore, it was 'fixed' but now it's barely holding together. Instead of getting it set-up again I was thinking about replacing it with an original Floyd Rose. Is this possible with the way the EDGE is attatched onto an Ibanez body or does some extra work need to be done prior to installing a real Floyd on this guitar?

2. I have very limited experience with Kahlers. Can you divebomb a Kahler like you can a Floyd? Which bridge has the ultimate advantage over the other, or is the Kahler vs. Floyd thing purely subjective?

You guys kick ass.

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You can drive bomb with Kahler bridges and the debate between Kahler vs Floyd is subjective. Both are good bridges but I like Kahler better.

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I've had my Jackson wrxt warrior for over a year and have never been able to get the bridge to stay in tune no matter how much I've read, so I want to try getting it replaced with a better bridge. Any recommendations on what to look for when buying a new bridge, and how much it might cost to have a tech put it in?

I'm buying a custom guitar and I have a choice between a Kahler and a Floyd. I've read over most of this thread but I need to know... Do you really need to solder the strings for a kahler bridge? That just seems like it would be a pain in the ass.

Umm no?

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Ive heard about that with Kahlers. Its supposed to increase tuning stability, but I know people who don't and their Kahlers stay in tune just fine. So the answer would be a no. What model Kahler are you getting?

I'm gonna go with what I'm used to... the Floyd Rose Original. I don't feel like having to re-master basic technique just for a slightly superior (to some people) bridge.

But thats the wonderful thing about a Kahler. You don't have to remaster a damn thing. It's still a floating bridge and better made with less weaknesses and better wear than Floyds.

And no, you don't have to solder the string ball ends for a Kahler. I used to do it but it really doesn't matter if you use good strings. It's still a good ideal to bend the string ball end to the contour of the cam so the ball ends reset in thier saddles correctly, but soldering is overkill. I've used DR strings for the last 6 years without breaking one with a Kahler pro bridge.

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The question isn't will the strings break, it's will they stay in tune permanently after you string and prestretch them. My Floyd Rose equipped Carvin has never gone out of tune, even after some furious whammy abuse.

I use 10 gauge DR Black Beauties. Should those be okay? Also, does the Kahler bend as far up and down in pitch as a Floyd?

The only reason I was going to go with the Floyd is because I have been playing on OFR's my whole life. My only guitar has one. Won't palm muting technique feel awkward until I get used to the feel of the Kahler? Also, is the string spacing .520 like a floyd or is it .5 because that might take some getting used to as well.

Yes the strings will say tuned and should not break easy. I use the same gauge and brand strings you do (10 gauge DR Black Beauties). Kahler bend down just as far as Floyds and high enough to bust/damage all your strings just like a floyd. Palm muting will be +1000% easier on Kahler ( just as natural as a ToM fixed bridge ). The saddle fulcrum point doesn't move on a Kahler unlike Floyd. Finally, you can custom adjust individual string spacing on a Kahler unlike a Floyd which has a universal fixed string spacing.

Edit: Anymore questions?

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Nope...Im getting a Kahler

Thanks for all your help.

I have another question.
I just ordered my guitar the other day but I didn't tell him which Kahler bridge to put on it. Which model should I go with?

Go to the Kahler site and look at the 2300 flat mount series models. Those are the ones you will want. I like the 2320 because the brass cam and saddles sound good and brass will not rust up. Kahler also makes the cams and saddles out of steel, aluminum, or a combo of parts. The 2315 is what Slayer uses.

Basically, the only difference in the bridges are what the cam and saddles are made from.

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What are the downsides of the steel one? Also, is there really a huge noticeable difference in the different metals?

There are tone differences, but the main thing for me is that brass doesn't rust. I got acid hands so most uncoated metals rust from my sweat faster than most other people. Brass saddles are easier for me to care for than steel, but steel wears better.

Brass parts on a kahler have a smooth, warm, darker tone, while steel parts have a bright edge tone. The 2315 has the best of both worlds; steel saddles and brass cam. I have never used the aluminum parts so I don't know what to tell you about them.

Most of the 2300 Kahlers are made of steel anyway. The difference between the models are what metals are used for the saddles and cam.

Personally I would like to replace my brass cam with a steel one and see how it sounds with me brass saddles

Here a picture of the first Kahler ever put on a Ran guitar.

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Arent the rollers made of stainless steel? If they are I dont think that they should rust or tarnish at all. I, too, sweat alot more than other people I know. Some of the metal on both of my guitars already tarnished and are wearing away. So i should probably get a Kahler with stainless steel rollers and a brass cam, or the 2315.

I'm planning on getting a Kahler on my next guitar. Its gonna have a dead flat radius and have a 1 5/8" nut. I wouldnt be able to do that with a Floyd.

Thanks for all of your help.

Raw stainless steel rollers will rust if given the right conditions, so they require extra attention. They are not powder coated, but even corrosion would eat that in time. Brass rollers don't rust. The main focus is to keeping the rollers smooth on the axle (brass or steel). A little unwaxed dental floss and 3in1 oil every 6 months will keep your rollers prime for years.

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Oh wow, I didnt know that. I guess I might go with the Kahler with the brass cams and rollers then. There shouldnt be that much of a tonal difference between the steel vs brass rollers, right? Id normally try out a guitar with a steel roller Kahler and compare that to a brass roller Kahler, but I cant find any guitars that come with Kahlers without buying them first.

There isn't that much difference in sound between the brass and steel rollers. Its kinda like the difference between steel and normal nickle frets or steel strings vs normal strings. The steel just has a brighter sound.

Steel rollers are good to use but you have to clean then more often.

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Alright man, thanks. I still dont know which Kahler trem I'm gonna get on my custom axe, but its gonna be awhile until then anyway, so I still have time to think it through some more.

you know how the OFR has a 10" bridge radius? how did this work for you guys? did you have to readjust it or has it never been a problem

^

i honestly have NO clue what you're talking about.... bridge radius?

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the saddles,
apparently one must shim them to get them to the desired radius

OOOH fretboard radius. I dont think it will do anything noticeable to the playing. Sure playing floyds is wierd because the strings are further apart, but matching the radius of the fretboard shouldnt matter unless its really drastic.

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Well for me, i can sorta feel the difference between some fretboard radiuses. One of my guitars is probably about 12" fretboard radius and the other is much flatter (maybe 20"?). After a bit of playing I am adjusted to that radius and can play just fine.

I just got this Jackson from eBay, which comes with the Jackson Licensed Floyd. I'm thinking about installing an Original Floyd Rose in its place. Thing is I don't know whether or not I could just swap out the bridges easily, or if I'd need to do some extra routing on the body to fit the OFR. Does anybody out there know?

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Should be the exact same. You can order different nut sized OFRs, other than that, there shouldn't be any routing. Unless it is a kahler bridge, most of them are pretty generic, which makes them easily swapable

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I actually dig that Jackson trem, but now my mind's turning over to my Ibanez RG restoration project. Could a OFR fit in a body routed originally for an Ibanez Edge I/II/III/Edge Pro Series? If not I'll just grab an original Edge from eBay.

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