I see them on ebay now and then mixed in with the Kahler bridges. They don't sell for much. Maybe $50 at the most. Hard to get parts for though.

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I've got 2 questions regarding bridges. This has to be one of my favorite threads on this site, btw.

1. I have an Ibanez RG570 with the EDGE licensed Floyd-Rose style tremelo system... thing is that trem has years of wear, tear and sweat erosion on it, it doesn't even stay in tune anymore, it was 'fixed' but now it's barely holding together. Instead of getting it set-up again I was thinking about replacing it with an original Floyd Rose. Is this possible with the way the EDGE is attatched onto an Ibanez body or does some extra work need to be done prior to installing a real Floyd on this guitar?

2. I have very limited experience with Kahlers. Can you divebomb a Kahler like you can a Floyd? Which bridge has the ultimate advantage over the other, or is the Kahler vs. Floyd thing purely subjective?

You guys kick ass.

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You can drive bomb with Kahler bridges and the debate between Kahler vs Floyd is subjective. Both are good bridges but I like Kahler better.

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I've had my Jackson wrxt warrior for over a year and have never been able to get the bridge to stay in tune no matter how much I've read, so I want to try getting it replaced with a better bridge. Any recommendations on what to look for when buying a new bridge, and how much it might cost to have a tech put it in?

I'm buying a custom guitar and I have a choice between a Kahler and a Floyd. I've read over most of this thread but I need to know... Do you really need to solder the strings for a kahler bridge? That just seems like it would be a pain in the ass.

Umm no?

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Ive heard about that with Kahlers. Its supposed to increase tuning stability, but I know people who don't and their Kahlers stay in tune just fine. So the answer would be a no. What model Kahler are you getting?

I'm gonna go with what I'm used to... the Floyd Rose Original. I don't feel like having to re-master basic technique just for a slightly superior (to some people) bridge.

But thats the wonderful thing about a Kahler. You don't have to remaster a damn thing. It's still a floating bridge and better made with less weaknesses and better wear than Floyds.

And no, you don't have to solder the string ball ends for a Kahler. I used to do it but it really doesn't matter if you use good strings. It's still a good ideal to bend the string ball end to the contour of the cam so the ball ends reset in thier saddles correctly, but soldering is overkill. I've used DR strings for the last 6 years without breaking one with a Kahler pro bridge.

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The question isn't will the strings break, it's will they stay in tune permanently after you string and prestretch them. My Floyd Rose equipped Carvin has never gone out of tune, even after some furious whammy abuse.

I use 10 gauge DR Black Beauties. Should those be okay? Also, does the Kahler bend as far up and down in pitch as a Floyd?

The only reason I was going to go with the Floyd is because I have been playing on OFR's my whole life. My only guitar has one. Won't palm muting technique feel awkward until I get used to the feel of the Kahler? Also, is the string spacing .520 like a floyd or is it .5 because that might take some getting used to as well.

Yes the strings will say tuned and should not break easy. I use the same gauge and brand strings you do (10 gauge DR Black Beauties). Kahler bend down just as far as Floyds and high enough to bust/damage all your strings just like a floyd. Palm muting will be +1000% easier on Kahler ( just as natural as a ToM fixed bridge ). The saddle fulcrum point doesn't move on a Kahler unlike Floyd. Finally, you can custom adjust individual string spacing on a Kahler unlike a Floyd which has a universal fixed string spacing.

Edit: Anymore questions?

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Nope...Im getting a Kahler

Thanks for all your help.

I have another question.
I just ordered my guitar the other day but I didn't tell him which Kahler bridge to put on it. Which model should I go with?

Go to the Kahler site and look at the 2300 flat mount series models. Those are the ones you will want. I like the 2320 because the brass cam and saddles sound good and brass will not rust up. Kahler also makes the cams and saddles out of steel, aluminum, or a combo of parts. The 2315 is what Slayer uses.

Basically, the only difference in the bridges are what the cam and saddles are made from.

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What are the downsides of the steel one? Also, is there really a huge noticeable difference in the different metals?

There are tone differences, but the main thing for me is that brass doesn't rust. I got acid hands so most uncoated metals rust from my sweat faster than most other people. Brass saddles are easier for me to care for than steel, but steel wears better.

Brass parts on a kahler have a smooth, warm, darker tone, while steel parts have a bright edge tone. The 2315 has the best of both worlds; steel saddles and brass cam. I have never used the aluminum parts so I don't know what to tell you about them.

Most of the 2300 Kahlers are made of steel anyway. The difference between the models are what metals are used for the saddles and cam.

Personally I would like to replace my brass cam with a steel one and see how it sounds with me brass saddles

Here a picture of the first Kahler ever put on a Ran guitar.

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Arent the rollers made of stainless steel? If they are I dont think that they should rust or tarnish at all. I, too, sweat alot more than other people I know. Some of the metal on both of my guitars already tarnished and are wearing away. So i should probably get a Kahler with stainless steel rollers and a brass cam, or the 2315.

I'm planning on getting a Kahler on my next guitar. Its gonna have a dead flat radius and have a 1 5/8" nut. I wouldnt be able to do that with a Floyd.

Thanks for all of your help.

Raw stainless steel rollers will rust if given the right conditions, so they require extra attention. They are not powder coated, but even corrosion would eat that in time. Brass rollers don't rust. The main focus is to keeping the rollers smooth on the axle (brass or steel). A little unwaxed dental floss and 3in1 oil every 6 months will keep your rollers prime for years.

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Oh wow, I didnt know that. I guess I might go with the Kahler with the brass cams and rollers then. There shouldnt be that much of a tonal difference between the steel vs brass rollers, right? Id normally try out a guitar with a steel roller Kahler and compare that to a brass roller Kahler, but I cant find any guitars that come with Kahlers without buying them first.