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  #41  
Old 2007-05-03, 16:30
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It's from the same family as Limba (also known as Korina), apparently it's "like Mahogany but with added mids", so should sound good
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  #42  
Old 2007-05-04, 07:04
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I'm looking into building my own guitars actually. I like that Kne guitar company. But I was looking at getting a custom body. Very similar to what Doyle from The Misfits made for himself. His custom 27 fret Rand guitar. Like a really radical body shape. Do you think Kne would make it for me or is there any other companies that could probably make it?
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  #43  
Old 2007-05-04, 08:34
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sorry guys the only camera i have is on my phone

ill try to get better lithginhg
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  #44  
Old 2007-05-04, 11:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
It's from the same family as Limba (also known as Korina), apparently it's "like Mahogany but with added mids", so should sound good
yeh limba is sweet man, nice tight tone. im guessing your going for a maple neck??
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  #45  
Old 2007-05-04, 14:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k13m
yeh limba is sweet man, nice tight tone. im guessing your going for a maple neck??


I would think so, something fairly simple for a kickoff- a 3piece laminated maple neck... perhaps with 2 little pieces of something else in there; for a little colour It's going to be a fanned 7 string- any tips from when you did your fan? I've got it all planned out pretty much, just interested if you came across any things that made life easier/to watch out for
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  #46  
Old 2007-05-04, 16:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
I would think so, something fairly simple for a kickoff- a 3piece laminated maple neck... perhaps with 2 little pieces of something else in there; for a little colour It's going to be a fanned 7 string- any tips from when you did your fan? I've got it all planned out pretty much, just interested if you came across any things that made life easier/to watch out for
well, nothing to special or extra hard about it, xept youll have to mark the fretpositions for 2 scale lenghts instead of 1.

what you might wanna consider is... since the nut is angled it will be in the way (for me atleast) i find the nut in a uncomfortable position when playing on the 1st fret, i kepe hitting the highstring side of the nut with my hand/pinky, wich is pretty annoying.. you could use a zero fret, and leave the end of the fretboard straight and put a nut there.....

im not sure how to explain this so i drew a picture haha, not sure if it makes sence.

also, you can mess around with the angle as much as you like... you could make the nut straight, buit then the bridge wil eb at a sick angle, or vice versa... on my fanned fret theirs 4 cm difference between the 2 scale lengths.. 680mm and 640 mm, so i just ballanced it by putting 2 cm diference at the nut and 2 cm difference at the bridge, wich makes the 12th fret prettymuch straight as a normal fretboard... and thats pretty comfortable imo... never played any other fanned frets, but ive seen soem pics of fanned frets where they made the difference bigger at the bright, making higher position frets at a radical angle, wich SEEMED realy uncomfortable for soloing etc...


also i found some bending issues.

when you bend on the lower frets, bending goes slowly, youll have to bend realy far to get to a whole note bend.. while on the higher frets youll bend up to 2,5 half notes without to much trouble.. due to the fretangles. nothing to bad realy, just sumtin youll have to egt used to a little..


i also found it prety comfortable to play on a fanned fretboard.. not sure if its better than a regular, but its not worse either didnt take me too long to get used to it etc.

what scale lengths are you planning to use??

and what do u wanna do for a bridge?? any ideas on that, since yuo cant buy regular fanned bridges.. and those abm 1 piece bridges are like 30bux for each piece, and youll need 7 in your case.

i used a scrap piece of rosewood as a bridge plate, and used some old stratish saddles wich i just screwed onto it.. the screw for intonation hits the screw wich holds the saddle in place on the bridge plate, so i guess thats the easiest solution.. xept dont use rosewood if its a serious build, try to find a metal plate or sumtin, or some ebony should work to...

have you ever seen www.blackmachine.net ??? if not check it out, theres a pertty good pickure of how they made their bridges for the fanned they amde, thats the idea i used to make my bridge.


sry for the long story lol hope that cleared some stuff up for ya or give u some ideas.. if you need some help let me know.
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  #47  
Old 2007-05-04, 17:50
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Cheers for the reply

I'm going to have the bridge pretty much straight (the perpendicular point being just over the bridge pickup), so i can stick with a regular tune-o-matic (string-through) It's going to be 25.5" on the treble, and 27" on the bass, so it's pretty much like yours actually- give or take a few mm. It'll mean that the lower frets will be angled a lot, but the upper ones being straighter. Interesting about the 1st fret thing, i see your idea, but i'm not too confident about a zero fret, it's something i've never used or seen in the the flesh before.

Hehe, funny you should bring up BlackMachine, as i got my timber from the same place they get theirs I actually used a blackmachine template to make sure i could get a superstrat shape out of the piece i selected I could spend hours and hours down there looking at all the different pieces they've got... will get myself a spalted (probably maple) top for a future guitar at some point too... mmmmm!

I've got a nice printout from a fret-calculator that i can use as a life-size template to mark out the scale lengths on the fretboard. I've got more Ebony than i need, so i might make the nut out of it... not sure yet, but i'll probably do an ebony cavity cover, as there'll only be 1 volume control and a switch (if i decide on two pickups, not sure yet).
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  #48  
Old 2007-05-05, 11:27
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sounds good, i dno if youll be playing comfortably on the lowerfrets at such an extreme angle, then again it might work for you, as ive got no experience with any other fanned axe other than my own.
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  #49  
Old 2007-05-06, 05:30
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k13m, a question:

With a bolt-on, did you angle the neck pocket itself, or did you angle the heel on the neck?
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  #50  
Old 2007-05-07, 11:12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
k13m, a question:

With a bolt-on, did you angle the neck pocket itself, or did you angle the heel on the neck?
heel of the neck is easier imo.
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  #51  
Old 2007-05-08, 15:02
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Neck materials hath been sourced:
Woods separated
Lookin' good (not glued yet, will happen later this week)

That timber will provide me with two necks (bolt-on), the woods are maple/purpleheart and padauk... both the purpleheart and padauk will look stunning when they've been properly prepared
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  #52  
Old 2007-05-08, 15:13
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did ya plane those sides yourself?
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  #53  
Old 2007-05-08, 15:52
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Nah, got the guys at the timber yard to do it... the maple came from a new plank too, cut specially for me
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  #54  
Old 2007-05-08, 16:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
Nah, got the guys at the timber yard to do it... the maple came from a new plank too, cut specially for me
aah the easy way huh , lol my master is forcing me to plane everything by hand, EVERYTHING lol, its a nightmare to get it perfect.. since perfect realy means perfect with my master
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  #55  
Old 2007-05-08, 16:55
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Hehe, i've not much planing experience really, but i've just inherited a lot of woodworking tools since my grandad died, so i've got a lot of it there to use One thing i do need, is a new bandsaw blade as this current one is proper rubbish, can't cut straight at all.
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  #56  
Old 2007-05-09, 12:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
Hehe, i've not much planing experience really, but i've just inherited a lot of woodworking tools since my grandad died, so i've got a lot of it there to use One thing i do need, is a new bandsaw blade as this current one is proper rubbish, can't cut straight at all.
do you have a wide or a narrow blade?? mostly its pretty hard to cut straight with a band saw anyway, unless you get the widest blade available, and then its still kinda tricky sumtimes cuz it will bend off when it hits a hard piece of grain etc.
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  #57  
Old 2007-05-09, 13:34
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It's a pretty narrow blade, but i'm currently doing some maintenance on it so it performs better, i think i can get it to cut straighter, as it's pretty much unusable in the current state... it is over 40 years old, so it'll need a little tlc.
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  #58  
Old 2007-05-09, 14:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqol
It's a pretty narrow blade, but i'm currently doing some maintenance on it so it performs better, i think i can get it to cut straighter, as it's pretty much unusable in the current state... it is over 40 years old, so it'll need a little tlc.
yeh it will help, but a narrow blade will bend REALY easy, impossible to make nice straight cuts with it.. i know from experience we use the narrow blade for bodies and headstocks only in the workshop.
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  #59  
Old 2007-05-09, 15:06
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Yea, i've got it set up pretty good now, a bit more fine tweaking, and it'll be good enough to do bodies etc. (with a new blade, the current one is a little blunt). I've got a circular saw that i can use for straight edges, then plane/sand them flat.
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  #60  
Old 2007-05-09, 16:01
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hey sgol do you ahve a website for the woodcompany thingy where u got your wood?? cuz im looking for a place that has some woods in europe.
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