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  #41  
Old 2007-06-01, 10:43
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Jopop Jopop is offline
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Well i have mixed feelings about it

Some days i just love it and some days i want to get rid of it. But i think it's more of a volume issue, it does not really sound good below 2 on that master volume really, and i can't play that loud every day

I played it for an hour today on volume 3 or so and dialed it in pretty good! I loved the tone and when i tried swapping guitars the tone was still really awesome without any tweaking really, it just became a tad different which was cool. I marked my settings with a green marker on the face plate so i won't forget them if someone fucks around with it

There's a very fine line between too little and too much on this amp's EQ and all the controls affect the others in some way or another.. Also the very subtle darkening of the amp worked really well, it removed some of the chansaw-like gain and put more of a lion's roar in it (the difference is subtle but it's there) Right now the balance between a palm mute and a normal fretted note is very nice and they kind of both just jump out of you but in different ways, and the midrange and stuff is really nice and everything just feels like how it should be. Sounds like a really expensive rig.. Like a Framus Cobra or something (at least what I've heard on record of it). The high end might need a tiny tiny bit more tweaking, but i managed to get it less ear-piercing without becoming too dull. I need to fine tweak the balance between the presence and treble controls, i will get there soon!

Shame though, next time I'll probably play it at low volume and think it sucks.. my opinion varies from day to day but the volume i can turn it up to also varies quite a lot from day to day

Maybe it would be good for me to get a power brake or hotplate or something? Those things are expensive though and I'm pretty broke atm :/
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  #42  
Old 2007-06-01, 10:50
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Oh and I'm sorry, but on the "less buzz" mod with the 1nF capacitor i said polyester film type which is very bad to use! Use polypropylene film! The words are so similar i forget the difference some times I edited the post though so it's correct now

As always, i like Xicon polypropylene film capacitors since they're affordable and sound great. For smaller sizes get silver mica caps (for treble capacitors and so on)
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Last edited by Jopop : 2007-06-01 at 11:11.
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  #43  
Old 2007-06-02, 16:01
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Yeah, the 5150 sucked ass today.

I sold the piece of shit and bought an Engl Powerball and a Z5 footswitch. 1300 bucks.
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  #44  
Old 2007-06-02, 16:13
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philkilla philkilla is offline
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Me wants an ENGL..

I want to try a Bogner Uberschall as well. Any experience here?
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  #45  
Old 2007-06-03, 14:46
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Meh the damn deal didn't go through. Seller crapped out on me I already said I'll take it and he said "okay sold" and then next day he says he sold it to some dude who wanted the amp + cab so he rather sold both

I understand the seller but we had an agreement that i bought it really. What an ass.
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  #46  
Old 2007-06-03, 21:52
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Does anyone have any experience with the Celestion G12K-100 speakers?
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  #47  
Old 2007-06-24, 00:45
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This should be a sticky.


Mass important mod info icluded!!!
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  #48  
Old 2007-06-27, 22:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulinsane
You're getting the right ideal You could have the best gear in the world but you need high quality materials connecting it all to get the most out of that gear. I can not emphasize the importance of good cable, wiring, and solder joints enough. Any musician worth a damn will tell you the same thing. All it takes is one solder joint, wire, or cable of poor quality to ruin you tone. Why make your own cable? Because its cost efficient, construction quality is better, and you get the lengths you need.

Continuing with this theme, I will explain my top secret cable making skills. I've spent hundreds hours of researching cable stats and materials, comparing everything. This post will reflect my final research results, choices in materials, and supply links.

Instrument cable:
Mogami w2524 guitar cable has the best stats I've ever seen compared to other cable manufactures that publish their cable stats. Basically, if you can't find stats on a cable you don't want it. The difference you hear between this cable and most other cables is like night and day. I consider this to be the best cable in the world, even compared to instrument cable that cost hundreds of dollars/ft. It is about as neutral, transparent, and quiet as a cable can get.

This is the cheapest place I have found it at $0.52/ft. Average price is $0.75/ft, but I have seen it as low as $0.37/ft in the past. If you can find it any cheaper than let me know.

Neutrik phone plugs are my favorite plugs to use, especially the series-C plugs. They are absolutely solid badass plugs for both instrument and patch connections. They do cost a bit, but are top of the range quality plugs and I've never had one fail. They range from about $2.00 up to $5.00 depending on the plug type and can be purchased just about anywhere. Here is an awesome buy! I use the Neutrik NP2C-BAG, Neutrik NP2RC-BAG, and Neutrik NP2RCS plugs. It's almost like the Neutrik series-C plugs were designed for use with Mogami w2524 cable. They are a perfect fit for each other. I don't use the gold plated plugs because there is no point unless the jacks they are plugged into are gold plated to and, most of all, I've never found any evidence that plating makes a real difference, so why pay more?

FYI: Use only the mono type 1/4" phone plugs with instrument cable or you will have big problems.

Now that you have everything, all you have to do is solder the plugs onto the desired cable length. Seems easy right? There are some important things you need to know first about stripping the Mogami cable. There is a layer of black PVC that needs to be stripped from the end of the clear insulation. Don't question it it. Just do it or the cable will not perform as it should. A fully prepped cable will have two hand twisted strands and will be tinned with a solder iron. It should look kinda like this once stripped, twisted, and tinned. Ready to have the plug soldered on . The strands in the middle of the cable should be soldered to the plugs tip terminal and the shielding strands should be soldered to the plug sleeve terminal. It should look kinda like this but not broken. Put the casing on the plug. Now test the constructed cables resistance with a multimeter to make sure there are no shorts or opens where there shouldn't be. Done.

Tips:
Make sure you slide the plug casing on to the cable first before you solder the plug and cable together or else you will have to desolder everything to get the casing on the plug.

Don't make cables any longer than 30' or the signal it will carry will start to diminish.

Practice soldering for about an hour or until you know you are ready to tackle this project. To much heat applied to the cable when soldering will melt the insulation and ruin the properties in that part of the cable if not ruin the plug in the worst case. To much or over heated solder joints will also ruin tone by acting like a resistor. Bigger the blob isn't better the job. Soldering is easy but it takes some pratice.

Always remember to tin the twisted strands of the cable and the plug terminals before you solder. It will help make the prefect solder joint. Use just enough heat and solder and the joint will be prefect every time.

Summary: I hope this saves someone from paying $50 on a pre-made 20' Mogami guitar cable with Neutrik plugs, because now you know how to make that same cable for $15. Making the prefect cable only requires decent soldering skills, good cable and good plugs. That's it. If you got any questions then ask.

Good luck

Edit: I'll post my links for speaker cable materials later, but their construction is basically the same. The only difference is that speaker cable is balanced while instrument cable is unbalanced.


That is very, very cool. I want to do this, my cables suck. Fucking one of the best things i've read on here. Will definantly acquire materials for several cables after my HSC, cause this is awesome. I expect to pay more for the materials here in Aus, but so be it.

Thanks a lot.
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  #49  
Old 2007-06-28, 12:12
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Problematic; I assume AUS pricing is similar to Norways? If so i've saved hundreds of dollars ordering from Redco.com. I use their 12/2 speaker cable too, it's top notch at a great price. They also have W2524 in stock at a great price.

For my pedalboard I've had great results with the belden foil install cable. Silent, transparent, thin.

Shipping doesn't break the bank either.
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  #50  
Old 2007-06-28, 17:55
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hey, about cables... and fx loops.

As everybody probably knows by now, i have a marshall 6100lm, which has an SS driven FX loop. My problem with it is that when its on, it completely sucks tone, gain, and basically you can DEFINATELY tell when its on(and i only keep it on the parallel setting thinking i wouldn't suck as bad as the series setting). So what can i do to fix this? Thicker cables in the loop? or should i open my beast up and fix some crap.

Currently, the send and recieve trip pots are set to +4, would setting them to 0 fix that? (ranges from -10 to +4)
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  #51  
Old 2007-06-28, 18:25
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-10 is generally what you work with in guitar audio, +4 is for "professional" equipment. Although, your FX loop might just be a piece of shit, but i thought the FX loops on the more expensive marshalls were pretty good..

Read this (I didn't write it, just copy-paste)

Q&A Questions and Answers general sound questions
GENERAL SOUND QUESTIONS
What does '+4dBm' and '-10dBV' mean on equipment? Is it important?



These values apply to the expected input and output levels. The levels of +4dBm and -10dBV are the 'nominal' levels, not the maximum or minimum, but used to differentiate between equipment for 'consumer' applications which generally have lower level, high inpedance inputs and outputs (the -10dBV level) and equipment for 'professional' applications, which have higher level low impedance inputs and outputs (the +4dBm level).

Both are voltage levels, and as you will see from the table below that the +4dBm equipment will produce up to 4x the level of the -10dBV equipment

level in dB level in Volts (RMS)
+4dBm 1.23V
-10dBV 0.316V


If you connect equipment with different nominal levels, then yu may experience distortion, particularly if a high impedance output is connected to a low impedance input, as the output may not be able to deliver the necessary voltage. Generally, low impedance outputs will connect to high impedance inputs, although you will have to be careful with the level output.



---


Now, if you're doing it the wrong way, you might be experiencing

#1 Gain decrease, loss of high end
#2 Gain increase

If you have both on +4 the return buffer will be severely mismatched with the output of your FX.. and you'll lose gain and treble. Plus, you're killing the input on what you have connected to send :P

BTW, some FX processors can switch between -10 and +4 too.. If you can, low impedance is generally better.
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Last edited by Jopop : 2007-06-28 at 18:32.
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  #52  
Old 2007-06-28, 19:06
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wicked info dude. So i'm just going to be using pedals on this puppy, so -10 it is?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahmers Fridge
In the US "fanny" is a word used to describe the ass or butt. Here in the UK "fanny" is a lady garden (vagina)
I was very bemused as a youngster watching the Golden Girls when Blanche said she was going to "spank her fanny" I had visions of a geriatric vertical bacon sandwich red and bruised from being disciplined!!!
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  #53  
Old 2007-06-28, 21:02
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Basically what Jopop said.

Setting your amps FX level to +4 dB means your amp is expecting your FXs to be functioning at a +4 dB signal level ( rack gear level ). Your pedals are -10dB, so start the knob there first.

Assuming you are using the series loop, adjust the level knob on the amps fx loop until the volume remains the same no matter if the FX loop is on or off. The final level you use depends on your pedal settings as well, so go with what sounds right to your ears. You might need to tweek the output setting on the pedals as well until you find a tone you like. It's a balancing act really.

Having that FX loop level knob is a freaking nice feature btw. Most amps are lucky just to have a level switch.
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Last edited by Soulinsane : 2007-06-28 at 21:07.
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  #54  
Old 2007-06-29, 00:39
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soulinsane, you should start a cab enhancement service. i'd send my shit to you and pay for it.
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forget wall of marshalls look at this wall of engls!
http://www.engl-amps.com/pics/newsp..._stevemorse.jpg

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  #55  
Old 2007-06-30, 01:20
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Cab enhancement is only the beginning of what I can do and by far the safest. Most mods are way to dangerous to post here. I know that no matter how careful I describe each step in an amp mod someone would die testing the waters and fumbling through my instructions for the first time. There are just to many details to account for. High voltage mods are not to be made by beginners without instructor observation. Several hours of safety training is needed before a potential tech ever opens a unit capable of killing; and this is without the unit even plugged in or energized. Under the right conditions, 30 mA is enough to kill a healthy human so safety is #1. If you want to mod guitar amps then college ET classes are a way to help gear your future If your a hardass fast learner then military service will uber boost the bell curve near cyborg learning levels but I do not suggest signing a military contact just to learn how to mod amps.

If shipping cost wouldn't kill the deal I would gladly mod your cab to your desired specs and wants. If you bring it to me I will only charge parts and beer cost... maybe $40-$50 total if you help me drink the beer. I will also be able to show you the finer points of the cab modifications I know about. The total process including glue cure times is about 2 weeks max, but I'm anal about every detail. When done the cab might look the same but it's reborn hard and bullet proof. What isn't seen is what counts the most with cabs.

"Soulinsane engineering technologies on the information dirt road"
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  #56  
Old 2009-11-08, 21:56
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Bump from the grave. I finally built my own amp, that very amp was the one i started this thread about.

here it is without a headshell, or faceplate art. I have it in the headshell right now, just dont have pictures. I'll be painting the faceplate eventually

Its like a Sunn Model T, 2xkt88's, feedback loop defeat switch, and the wrong output transformer hahahha. Still working on the math to figure out what transformer primary impedance i need for a pair of 6550's running at about 480v on the plates, in ultralinear configuration.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f...01/DSC00386.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f...01/DSC00387.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f...01/DSC00400.jpg

I run it with my B.C. Rich Mockingbird Special (white) with a bareknuckle warpig in the bridge position, into my BlueBeard Fuzz, into the high input.

Bright channel volume around 2, normal around 3, bass at 0, middle at 5, treble 3, presence 1, masters wherever.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahmers Fridge
In the US "fanny" is a word used to describe the ass or butt. Here in the UK "fanny" is a lady garden (vagina)
I was very bemused as a youngster watching the Golden Girls when Blanche said she was going to "spank her fanny" I had visions of a geriatric vertical bacon sandwich red and bruised from being disciplined!!!

Last edited by the_bleeding : 2009-11-08 at 22:00.
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  #57  
Old 2009-11-08, 22:04
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We need some audio when it's all said and done! I really wish I had the prowess when it comes to electricity to do something like this. Very impressive
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  #58  
Old 2010-04-12, 12:14
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I wrote an article (see link) for a guitar site of mine that may be of use to you, and also run a Marshall oriented modding site (see my sig). Feel free to fire off any questions and I'll do my best to respond!
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