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Old 2006-05-07, 02:35
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Soulinsane Soulinsane is offline
Pirate Lawd
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Hanger 18
Posts: 6,520
Speaker cab insulating and reinforcement

I finally found a Randall XLT cab for a good price 2 weeks back at a local music store. I bought it for $300. It sounds worlds better then the damned Crate cab I had and is designed for my 300W Cyclone head. It is rated at 280W, 4x12 Celestion V30s, 3/4" birch, 4/16 OHM mono, 8 OMH stereo and was a steal at $300. I hauled my gear to the store to try it out the day I bought it and also took the back panel off to make sure it had V30s.

I realized that I've always invested in good instrument cable and connectors ( Mogami 2524 and Neutrik connectors), but have never looked into quality speaker cable so I decide to buy some good speaker cable and connectors for my new cab. It really does make a difference to have good cable, connectors, and solder joints. I did my research and found yet again Mogami cable to be about the best ever cable with God like low capacitance and resistance. I decided to buy Mogami W3103 2/12 AWG conductor speaker cable ( avoid 4 conductor in quad configuration. Its good for triamping only and not for short runs from a amp head to cab ) and G&H Megafoot .500 connectors. I build my own cables btw. I do better solder joints then anyone or thing I've ever seen.

Then I started to wonder.... What about the wire inside the speaker cab? Is it copper core strand? What AWG? Whats the point of nice speaker cable if the stuff in the cab isn't up to grade? So I open my cab and was not surprized to find cheap ass 20 awg aluminum wire connecting my nice Celestion V30s Back to research....

After some more research I found out that I might need to take a second look at my cab to make sure the speakers were bolted all the way through the baffle ( not just screwed in ) to insure they are sealed good, that everything was properly sealed air tight, and was turned on to the ideal that added sound insulation inside my cab will tighten my responce.

This is what I found. The speakers were mounted correctly through the baffle but I torqued all the mounting heads to make sure nothing was lose or uneven. As I said the speakers were mounted correctly. Even though Randall did use quallity materials on this cab and did build it as tough and leathery as a cheerleaders snatch, I found that it isn't sealed air tight. There is no seal on the back panel or on the handle hardwear and I can't be sure about the joints either as I don't see any calking sealant to insure a complete seal around the braces.

I am fixing the seal problem with calking on all bracing corners and with high dencity seals on the back panel and handles. I am fixing the wiring problem by installing 10 AWG strand copper wire. No need for using 2 conductor speaker wire inside a cab with so much room. That way conductors will not be close enought to build up a capacitance. I am also adding a few wood screws to the bracing as I only see staples holding them to the rest of the cab.

I also bought some egg carton foam that I'm going to glue to all inside surfaces except the baffle tomarrow. I have read that this destroys standing sound waves inside the cab and increases responce. People claim it makes a huge difference in there sound. Anyone ever done this? I'll find out soon I guess. If I don't like it I can always remove it.
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